Back in October, I thought I was being so clever to avoid all the "What's next?" questions that accompany any major life change - like marriage or graduation or moving house/country. I laughed me all the way to Africa in my cleverness. I laughed from Africa to the Middle East, and from there to Asia and even laughed in Australia. Well, the laughing stopped about three days after we landed at SFO. All those questions weren't avoided so much as they were postponed. We have since had a head-on collision, them in their Hummer and me in my Geo Metro. (They won.) I am now mired in a morass of WHAT THE HELL AM I DOING WITH MY LIFE?
While it may not sound like returning to SF for the summer was a brilliant plan, it has managed to answer one question about where I want to live: Not here, at least not right now. It seems that almost everywhere we've been has been a whole lot of "Not here". Which begs the question, "Then Where?" The answer is contained within a multidimensional scatterplot with axes like (but not limited to) job availability, job likability, friendliness quotient, distance from family, minimum temperature, proximity to water, language barriosity, and cost of living. It's a complicated business trying to make decisions for two people.
On Monday night, waiting for the 49 bus (our new Muni friend which I already hate), Zack pointed out that I have street humor. This is not to imply that I have a potty mouth (which I do, but that's not the point), but rather that my humour is spur-of-the-moment, spy-a-shiny-thing-on-the-ground-and-pick-it-up in character. At least I usually laugh.
And on Saturday, Bill taught us a new game the name of which I've already forgotten but which was great fun. It involved Zack rolling in sheep. And we haven't even got to New Zealand yet.
June 29, 2006
June 21, 2006
To Excess
Our first day in Melbourne, we head to the supermarket with mum. I'm excited about cooking dinner and we need supplies. I forget that this simple errand can induce culture shock. And it does. There are aisles and aisles and aisles and they're all full of food. At least, I think it's food. Everything is wrapped or canned or otherwise packaged and there's no smell. I compare this experience to that of most Africans and get a taste of the shock of immigration. Not only must it be a hard adjustment to make personally, but also there are friends and family still at home who do not have access to such excess.
On Saturday night in San Francisco, we head over to our old 'hood to play ring toss. On our way back to Muni we pass Marcelo's and find we can't pass up on a slice of pizza. We sit at the window seats watching the Castro scene as a mopey song plays in the background. Again with the excess. There are shops like Marcelo's all over the city, full of food for the purchasing. I remember the pizza Z ordered in Lallibela: a piece of bread with a mainly ketchup sauce and about three small slivers of grated cheese. Not really comparable to Marcelo's at all.
And then yesterday, we walk over to Union Square in search of a watchmaker and I realize just how much capitalism sickens me. There are all these people who have too much money and then these other people who are busy finding ways for the people with too much money to part with their money, all in order to make more money that they can then spend on things and stuff that they don't actually need - but there are people whose job it is to convince them that they do actually desperately need sunscreen for their dog. It's all disgusting. And the worst part is when I realize that somehow they've sunk their barbs into me, too.
Ah, the joys of reentry. I think I'll have some lunch.
On Saturday night in San Francisco, we head over to our old 'hood to play ring toss. On our way back to Muni we pass Marcelo's and find we can't pass up on a slice of pizza. We sit at the window seats watching the Castro scene as a mopey song plays in the background. Again with the excess. There are shops like Marcelo's all over the city, full of food for the purchasing. I remember the pizza Z ordered in Lallibela: a piece of bread with a mainly ketchup sauce and about three small slivers of grated cheese. Not really comparable to Marcelo's at all.
And then yesterday, we walk over to Union Square in search of a watchmaker and I realize just how much capitalism sickens me. There are all these people who have too much money and then these other people who are busy finding ways for the people with too much money to part with their money, all in order to make more money that they can then spend on things and stuff that they don't actually need - but there are people whose job it is to convince them that they do actually desperately need sunscreen for their dog. It's all disgusting. And the worst part is when I realize that somehow they've sunk their barbs into me, too.
Ah, the joys of reentry. I think I'll have some lunch.
June 13, 2006
Camera Shutter?
David Attenborough rocks for many reasons (I'm dead serious). This clip of a lyre bird is one of them.
June 12, 2006
The Other Side
In the early 1940's, my paternal grandfather was given a 48-hour leave from the base where he was a mechanic for the RAF. He and another serviceman walked past a theatre and decided to go in. They dug into their pockets for change but were quickly told that they didn't need to pay. They were given front and centre seats ... at the theatre recently featured in the movie Mrs Henderson Presents. He said his eyeballs still haven't popped back into his head.
He and my grandmother have been married for 63 years. They met in Blythe when she was 14 and he was 17 and moved to Australia with three children in the mid-1950's. In Adelaide, they got off the boat with a single trunk and $50.
We spent two days with them in Adelaide, which, along with Melbourne, is having the coldest June since the 1800's. Some places are recording the coldest temperatures ever. I'm so glad we're here to feel such important history being made. My toes are not so glad. Despite socks and nearby heating, they remain frozen. But I digress.
My grandfather had lots of stories to tell. He told us about their friends dog who only eats chicken breast (cooked and diced) and who needs to be walked every night at midnight. He told us about where he was on D-day: his squadron moved from Iceland to a loch in Scotland in terrible weather. He said that when someone in the squadron was killed, you would say that he had gone to have a Burton - a type of beer. This allowed all the men to keep a stiff upper lip, which is a vital part of being British.
It took me a while to realise why seeing Nana was strange. In the past, she's been so motherly - going out of her way to take care of me. This time, it was she who needed to be taken care of. She's much more frail and her memory is not what it used to be. She asked us at least three times per day when we were moving to Tasmania. While her memory may be declining, her cooking has certainly improved, most likely attributable to my grandfather's heart attack. She can no longer use as primary ingredients bacon, cheese, butter, cream, bacon and cheese. All of our arteries are glad.
There are magpies a-plenty around their house and they have trained my grandparents quite well. In the morning, they warble just outside the back door and are rewarded with bread for breakfast. Then they warble for morning tea. And for lunch. And afternoon tea. They have quite a racket going. In the mornings, Z and I would wake up to their songs and extricate ourselves from the guest bed, which is older than me. It was impossible to avoid rolling downhill into the centre of the mattress, though sleeping close together (with pyjamas, socks and sweaters on) helped keep us warm. There were still windows in the house open despite the bitter cold.
The first morning I opted for a shower to warm up. The trickle of water dribbling out of the tap was barely hot without any cold water on at all. But I guess it's all a part of sucking it up and not complaining. As my grandfather likes to say, Keep a stiff upper lip.
He and my grandmother have been married for 63 years. They met in Blythe when she was 14 and he was 17 and moved to Australia with three children in the mid-1950's. In Adelaide, they got off the boat with a single trunk and $50.
We spent two days with them in Adelaide, which, along with Melbourne, is having the coldest June since the 1800's. Some places are recording the coldest temperatures ever. I'm so glad we're here to feel such important history being made. My toes are not so glad. Despite socks and nearby heating, they remain frozen. But I digress.
My grandfather had lots of stories to tell. He told us about their friends dog who only eats chicken breast (cooked and diced) and who needs to be walked every night at midnight. He told us about where he was on D-day: his squadron moved from Iceland to a loch in Scotland in terrible weather. He said that when someone in the squadron was killed, you would say that he had gone to have a Burton - a type of beer. This allowed all the men to keep a stiff upper lip, which is a vital part of being British.
It took me a while to realise why seeing Nana was strange. In the past, she's been so motherly - going out of her way to take care of me. This time, it was she who needed to be taken care of. She's much more frail and her memory is not what it used to be. She asked us at least three times per day when we were moving to Tasmania. While her memory may be declining, her cooking has certainly improved, most likely attributable to my grandfather's heart attack. She can no longer use as primary ingredients bacon, cheese, butter, cream, bacon and cheese. All of our arteries are glad.
There are magpies a-plenty around their house and they have trained my grandparents quite well. In the morning, they warble just outside the back door and are rewarded with bread for breakfast. Then they warble for morning tea. And for lunch. And afternoon tea. They have quite a racket going. In the mornings, Z and I would wake up to their songs and extricate ourselves from the guest bed, which is older than me. It was impossible to avoid rolling downhill into the centre of the mattress, though sleeping close together (with pyjamas, socks and sweaters on) helped keep us warm. There were still windows in the house open despite the bitter cold.
The first morning I opted for a shower to warm up. The trickle of water dribbling out of the tap was barely hot without any cold water on at all. But I guess it's all a part of sucking it up and not complaining. As my grandfather likes to say, Keep a stiff upper lip.
June 07, 2006
Standards
We just returned from a visit to my maternal grandmother's house in Kyneton, about an hour NW of Melbourne. I have always been nervous about introducing people (read: males) to my grandmother as she used to adhere to a standard of etiquette that would make Miss Manners swoon. When I was little, the most commonly heard phrase at the dinner table (which was set formally every night) was, "How would you behave if the Queen was here?" I had noticed, while in Malaysia, that Z manipulated his cutlery with his elbows somewhere up around his ears, a move that would have guaranteed a, "Where are you flying to, dear?" said pointedly, with snide haughtiness. This from the same grandmother who begged me not to marry an American as that would give me more reason to not return to Australia.
Needless to say, I was nervous to introduce the two of them. I had nothing to worry about. Last night, my grandmother said that she would like to keep Z. No, she had no need for mum and I to stay; just Z, thank you very much. I think what really enamored her was his ability to dry dishes. She just wouldn't stop going on about how her husband would never - Never! - have done anything in the kitchen; that was women's work. How things have changed! I would never - Never! - have considered marrying anyone who wouldn't help out in the kitchen. And I don't know a woman who would.
She's softened up a lot, my grandmother has. She's a bit wobbly on her feet and a looks a lot more frail. She has trouble thinking of the word she wants to say. Yesterday she was telling us a story about entertaining important guests when she lived in Malaysia. The food was taking a long time to appear so she went into the kitchen to see what the problem was. She found the cook on his hands and knees picking up (and here she fumbled) white stuff from the floor. What is that stuff called, she asked us? Rice? we guessed. Pasta? Spaghetti? Noodles? Rice? Finally, I said potatoes - and she was off to finish the story. She had the cook hurriedly wash the potatoes and serve them because the guests had already waited too long for the food. There was so much emphasis on looking right in that social circle and at that time. This also explains why she once served tea after seeing a cockroach floating in the tea pot: she couldn't admit that there were vermin in the kitchen! But don't worry - mum cooked the food on this most recent visit. Nothing fell on the floor or came into intimate contact with any kind of insect. I think.
It was great to see my grandmother again. I came to Australia in 2001 and saw her for what I thought would be the last time. I've seen her twice more since. To say that I'm glad she and Z had a chance to meet would be an understatement.
She's intent on being remembered - she wants to give her things away to people who will treasure them and use them. She gave us a beautiful silver pitcher that, she explained, allows one to have the wine decanted and ready to serve as soon as the guests arrive. Like I need things to remember my grandmother by. She will always be with me through her stories, her love of animals, her table manners and that stubborn streak that runs thick through the blood of this family's women. While looking through some old photographs, Z pointed out that she and I looked alike as young girls. I think it was the set of our jaws. I've never seen that resemblance before; it's one more way to remember her.
Needless to say, I was nervous to introduce the two of them. I had nothing to worry about. Last night, my grandmother said that she would like to keep Z. No, she had no need for mum and I to stay; just Z, thank you very much. I think what really enamored her was his ability to dry dishes. She just wouldn't stop going on about how her husband would never - Never! - have done anything in the kitchen; that was women's work. How things have changed! I would never - Never! - have considered marrying anyone who wouldn't help out in the kitchen. And I don't know a woman who would.
She's softened up a lot, my grandmother has. She's a bit wobbly on her feet and a looks a lot more frail. She has trouble thinking of the word she wants to say. Yesterday she was telling us a story about entertaining important guests when she lived in Malaysia. The food was taking a long time to appear so she went into the kitchen to see what the problem was. She found the cook on his hands and knees picking up (and here she fumbled) white stuff from the floor. What is that stuff called, she asked us? Rice? we guessed. Pasta? Spaghetti? Noodles? Rice? Finally, I said potatoes - and she was off to finish the story. She had the cook hurriedly wash the potatoes and serve them because the guests had already waited too long for the food. There was so much emphasis on looking right in that social circle and at that time. This also explains why she once served tea after seeing a cockroach floating in the tea pot: she couldn't admit that there were vermin in the kitchen! But don't worry - mum cooked the food on this most recent visit. Nothing fell on the floor or came into intimate contact with any kind of insect. I think.
It was great to see my grandmother again. I came to Australia in 2001 and saw her for what I thought would be the last time. I've seen her twice more since. To say that I'm glad she and Z had a chance to meet would be an understatement.
She's intent on being remembered - she wants to give her things away to people who will treasure them and use them. She gave us a beautiful silver pitcher that, she explained, allows one to have the wine decanted and ready to serve as soon as the guests arrive. Like I need things to remember my grandmother by. She will always be with me through her stories, her love of animals, her table manners and that stubborn streak that runs thick through the blood of this family's women. While looking through some old photographs, Z pointed out that she and I looked alike as young girls. I think it was the set of our jaws. I've never seen that resemblance before; it's one more way to remember her.
June 03, 2006
End of Travellator
We are in Australia, Melbourne to be precise. It is winter down here. Yesterday must have been a mild day because other people were walking around in t-shirts and light jackets. Emphasis on Other People. I sported four layers including woolen jumper (sweater to you yanks), long coat and scarf. In Malaysia, our a/c was set to 20C; here the heater is set to 20C. And everyone talks funny. I am doing my best to resist reverting to full-on Aussiedom knowing that communication between me and my husband would quickly devolve to grunted Huh's? and pantomime. So far, so good: we are still talking.
I have received many curious e-mails about my sister who moved to Melbourne with her husband in January. Despite the fact that we are all in the same house, I have seen her for all of 15 minutes (she was exhausted) in the three days we've been here. Hiding out? Who? Where??? Z has been great at reminding me exactly how much things have improved: she is talking to two members of the family (mum and her partner); she is working; she is not lying in a ditch somewhere. And yet, of course it is hard for me. I did not see her at her worst which means that now she appears as a shadow of the young woman I used to admire so much. I know that there was a huge dip between 2002 and 2006, a dip which I thankfully did not have to witness first-hand. Compared to that dip, she's doing brilliantly. But for me, it seems like a down from her former glory. It's sad; it's hard. And I'm trying not to let it completely rule my time here nor my emotional well-being. So, tonight we are going to stay with Alicia and Mick for a few days. It will be great to see them both; they are wonderfully fun people.
In other news, there are hilarious photos now up from the time we spent with Lev. They're on Z's site and we will hopefully be moving the rest of our photos to the same spot in the next month or so. Emphasis on the Or So.
It's interesting to be entering this new phase of our travels. In this part of the world, the moving walkways found at airports are called Travellators. En route to the car park in Melbourne aiport, a recording of a woman's voice sternly warned of the End of the Travellator. In Singapore, they had bright red signs. I took them as signs - as in Signs, of the end of our Travellator. I just need to remember to release the brake on my luggage-laden hand cart.
I have received many curious e-mails about my sister who moved to Melbourne with her husband in January. Despite the fact that we are all in the same house, I have seen her for all of 15 minutes (she was exhausted) in the three days we've been here. Hiding out? Who? Where??? Z has been great at reminding me exactly how much things have improved: she is talking to two members of the family (mum and her partner); she is working; she is not lying in a ditch somewhere. And yet, of course it is hard for me. I did not see her at her worst which means that now she appears as a shadow of the young woman I used to admire so much. I know that there was a huge dip between 2002 and 2006, a dip which I thankfully did not have to witness first-hand. Compared to that dip, she's doing brilliantly. But for me, it seems like a down from her former glory. It's sad; it's hard. And I'm trying not to let it completely rule my time here nor my emotional well-being. So, tonight we are going to stay with Alicia and Mick for a few days. It will be great to see them both; they are wonderfully fun people.
In other news, there are hilarious photos now up from the time we spent with Lev. They're on Z's site and we will hopefully be moving the rest of our photos to the same spot in the next month or so. Emphasis on the Or So.
It's interesting to be entering this new phase of our travels. In this part of the world, the moving walkways found at airports are called Travellators. En route to the car park in Melbourne aiport, a recording of a woman's voice sternly warned of the End of the Travellator. In Singapore, they had bright red signs. I took them as signs - as in Signs, of the end of our Travellator. I just need to remember to release the brake on my luggage-laden hand cart.
May 28, 2006
A Day in the Life
It's midnight. The light's been out for over an hour when we realize that none of us are able to sleep in the steaminess of our room in Bako National Park. Lev resurrects the ghost of Aruba (oooooooo!) and thwacks me in the face with a pillow. Z mumbles something and pretends that he's actually been able to sleep. I give up and take a sleeping pill. They lie awake until the storm breaks with (purportedly) torrential rain; I hear nothing.
I wake up a little before 8:00 feeling refreshed. Z and Lev are not so thrilled to greet the new day. I help Lev out of bed by putting a large, black, leggy insect on his pillow right next to his face. It does wonders.
We pack up and head to breakfast as the sky above us rumbles and drips. As we eat, a bearded pig does laps around the cafeteria. They are large beasts resembling dwarf bison that have somehow managed to get the contents of a can of salmon catfood stuck to their faces - their noses are pink, drastically bare compared to the hairiness of their faces, and tubular. And almost prehensile. In a word: strange.
It's low tide, so we walk a long way out to our boat, across mudflats crawling with a variety of crabs and some kind of worm in a round shell that flops around looking exactly like a caricature of large sperm. The sky is immense and grey over water that is flat and grey-green. It's hard to tell where sky and water meet. Thunder rolls from the green cloaked mountains across the sea. It begins to rain, big juicy drops that quickly soak us as we motor back to the bus stop.
The bus stop stinks. I can't see what it is that we're sitting next to, but I'm pretty sure it's been there a long time. Back in Kuching we check into the hotel with the fantastic showers and go out to eat. I get "fast food", otherwise known as buffet: a combination of coconut chicken with Indian spices and crisply cooked Chinese-style vegetables. I love Malaysia's international approach to cuisine.
After lunch, we set off in search of souvenirs and a taxi. The clouds have cleared and the temperature has soared. We find the latter, piloted by a man named Chin Chin Min, who has a triangular face and crinkled eyes. He takes us to Semonggok wildlife refuge. As we pass through the gates it begins to pour. And I mean POUR. We sit under an awning and wait for 3:00pm to arrive: Orang Utan feeding time. The world's most boring public speaker gives us a pianissimo introduction to the Park and its inhabitants. He says things like, "It's very dangerous to have [mumble mumble mumble] so be careful of the [mumble mumble mumble] and whatever you do, don't [mumble mumble mumble]." It's a very instructive speech.
After a short walk through dripping jungle, we see an Orang Utan. He is big and, we later learn, named Josh. After gorging on papaya, oranges and bananas, he lazily leaves the platform by deftly climbing a rope and swinging from vine to vine. He seems too big to achieve such quietly graceful movements.
Back at the hotel, we all fall asleep, naps punctuated by three really loud explosions. Perhaps someone is holding a microphone to a backfiring tailpipe? Or are they mining right outside our window? When I get up I check: No, Kuching is not on fire.
We splurge on a great meal and a bottle of wine that is not made from banana or papaya. Lev orders the organic chicken and is served an entire chicken in a delicious tandoori-like sauce. My lemongrass chicken comes with a mound of vegetables including broccoli. How I have missed broccoli! We finish with mud cake the ingredients of which are chocolate, chocolate, chocolate and chocolate. In chocolate sauce.
Suitably junked up on sugar, we head to a bar. It's ladies night: yay, free drinks! But, boo, apparently only if you're Asian. They try to charge me about $4 for half a glass of tonic that was held next to a bottle of gin. I try to send it back; they relent and give it to me for free.
We sit and try to figure out the social dynamics of the bar. We fail. No matter what we do, we are apparently doing it wrong. I dance anyway, and slowly as everyone in the bar gets more drunk, they loosen up. Soon I have not one, not two, but three stumblingly drunk women grinding themselves against me. I extricate myself and we move to another section of the bar where the women are able to stay on their feet without grabbing on to me. The music is a mix of Chinese pop, Bollywood, and 80's & 90's hits. I figure out the dancing rules: Grab and grind. There are no introductions; all those people I thought were couples have probably only just met. It's like 10th grade all over again.
And that is how the day ends: me and Lev sweatily dancing in a packed nightclub on Borneo. I just have to laugh at the absurdity of it all. This is my life.
I wake up a little before 8:00 feeling refreshed. Z and Lev are not so thrilled to greet the new day. I help Lev out of bed by putting a large, black, leggy insect on his pillow right next to his face. It does wonders.
We pack up and head to breakfast as the sky above us rumbles and drips. As we eat, a bearded pig does laps around the cafeteria. They are large beasts resembling dwarf bison that have somehow managed to get the contents of a can of salmon catfood stuck to their faces - their noses are pink, drastically bare compared to the hairiness of their faces, and tubular. And almost prehensile. In a word: strange.
It's low tide, so we walk a long way out to our boat, across mudflats crawling with a variety of crabs and some kind of worm in a round shell that flops around looking exactly like a caricature of large sperm. The sky is immense and grey over water that is flat and grey-green. It's hard to tell where sky and water meet. Thunder rolls from the green cloaked mountains across the sea. It begins to rain, big juicy drops that quickly soak us as we motor back to the bus stop.
The bus stop stinks. I can't see what it is that we're sitting next to, but I'm pretty sure it's been there a long time. Back in Kuching we check into the hotel with the fantastic showers and go out to eat. I get "fast food", otherwise known as buffet: a combination of coconut chicken with Indian spices and crisply cooked Chinese-style vegetables. I love Malaysia's international approach to cuisine.
After lunch, we set off in search of souvenirs and a taxi. The clouds have cleared and the temperature has soared. We find the latter, piloted by a man named Chin Chin Min, who has a triangular face and crinkled eyes. He takes us to Semonggok wildlife refuge. As we pass through the gates it begins to pour. And I mean POUR. We sit under an awning and wait for 3:00pm to arrive: Orang Utan feeding time. The world's most boring public speaker gives us a pianissimo introduction to the Park and its inhabitants. He says things like, "It's very dangerous to have [mumble mumble mumble] so be careful of the [mumble mumble mumble] and whatever you do, don't [mumble mumble mumble]." It's a very instructive speech.
After a short walk through dripping jungle, we see an Orang Utan. He is big and, we later learn, named Josh. After gorging on papaya, oranges and bananas, he lazily leaves the platform by deftly climbing a rope and swinging from vine to vine. He seems too big to achieve such quietly graceful movements.
Back at the hotel, we all fall asleep, naps punctuated by three really loud explosions. Perhaps someone is holding a microphone to a backfiring tailpipe? Or are they mining right outside our window? When I get up I check: No, Kuching is not on fire.
We splurge on a great meal and a bottle of wine that is not made from banana or papaya. Lev orders the organic chicken and is served an entire chicken in a delicious tandoori-like sauce. My lemongrass chicken comes with a mound of vegetables including broccoli. How I have missed broccoli! We finish with mud cake the ingredients of which are chocolate, chocolate, chocolate and chocolate. In chocolate sauce.
Suitably junked up on sugar, we head to a bar. It's ladies night: yay, free drinks! But, boo, apparently only if you're Asian. They try to charge me about $4 for half a glass of tonic that was held next to a bottle of gin. I try to send it back; they relent and give it to me for free.
We sit and try to figure out the social dynamics of the bar. We fail. No matter what we do, we are apparently doing it wrong. I dance anyway, and slowly as everyone in the bar gets more drunk, they loosen up. Soon I have not one, not two, but three stumblingly drunk women grinding themselves against me. I extricate myself and we move to another section of the bar where the women are able to stay on their feet without grabbing on to me. The music is a mix of Chinese pop, Bollywood, and 80's & 90's hits. I figure out the dancing rules: Grab and grind. There are no introductions; all those people I thought were couples have probably only just met. It's like 10th grade all over again.
And that is how the day ends: me and Lev sweatily dancing in a packed nightclub on Borneo. I just have to laugh at the absurdity of it all. This is my life.
May 12, 2006
May 04, 2006
A Slice of Pai
I'm sitting in an internet cafe under a fan, sweating like a pig. That's because it's 39C - inside, under the fan! It's gotta be well over 40C on the street.
It cooled down here for a while when Cyclone Mala stirred up weather in the Bay of Bengal causing a grey and intermittently raining sky to settle over the Pai valley. On the evening of the second full day of rain, a globular insect with flapping lacy wings hatched. Swarms of them filled our room, appearing from nowhere. They flew down my shirt and got tangled in my hair as we hurridly hung our mosquito net. A big, spotted gecko set up shop outside our bathroom window, grabbing excitedly at insects on both sides of the screen. At dinner, the chair by the light remained unoccupied - the air around it frothed with life. Nearby, frogs, toads and geckos chirrupped drunkenly. And then, as suddenly as they appeared, the insects were gone, though their brown winged carcasses littered our bathroom for days afterwards until the ants carried away those I hadn't managed to wash down the drain.
The rain cooled everything down and made the earth smell like it was growing. The river rose, the sandbanks disappeared, and we sat inside playing cards, reading, eating pad thai and discussing whether the clouds on the horizon were dark enough to signal rain or light enough to signal a break in the weather. Break it eventually did, with a spectacular day of brilliant blue sky and skudding puffy white clouds. The blue was so blue it hurt the eyes, and yet the clouds kept the sun from heating everything up excessively. That was a few days ago. Now we have flown rapidly past excessive heat and are into a whole other category of hot. Hot wind. Hot ground. Hot bicyle seat. It's even hot under a fan with a watermelon shake in hand. Everything's hot - it's the Grand Unified Theory of Hot.
I rode home last night at about 11:30. Riding fast, the warm air felt comfortably cool against my skin. I rounded a corner onto our street and was caressed by the scent of jasmine. In the sky, a yellowing crescent moon sank through a patch of wispy clouds. I was so carried away by the beauty of the moment that I barely managed to swerve in time to avoid riding over the flat and very dry toad that's been sitting in the middle of our street for days.
And that's what life is like. Beautiful this, beautiful that - and mind the dead toad.
It cooled down here for a while when Cyclone Mala stirred up weather in the Bay of Bengal causing a grey and intermittently raining sky to settle over the Pai valley. On the evening of the second full day of rain, a globular insect with flapping lacy wings hatched. Swarms of them filled our room, appearing from nowhere. They flew down my shirt and got tangled in my hair as we hurridly hung our mosquito net. A big, spotted gecko set up shop outside our bathroom window, grabbing excitedly at insects on both sides of the screen. At dinner, the chair by the light remained unoccupied - the air around it frothed with life. Nearby, frogs, toads and geckos chirrupped drunkenly. And then, as suddenly as they appeared, the insects were gone, though their brown winged carcasses littered our bathroom for days afterwards until the ants carried away those I hadn't managed to wash down the drain.
The rain cooled everything down and made the earth smell like it was growing. The river rose, the sandbanks disappeared, and we sat inside playing cards, reading, eating pad thai and discussing whether the clouds on the horizon were dark enough to signal rain or light enough to signal a break in the weather. Break it eventually did, with a spectacular day of brilliant blue sky and skudding puffy white clouds. The blue was so blue it hurt the eyes, and yet the clouds kept the sun from heating everything up excessively. That was a few days ago. Now we have flown rapidly past excessive heat and are into a whole other category of hot. Hot wind. Hot ground. Hot bicyle seat. It's even hot under a fan with a watermelon shake in hand. Everything's hot - it's the Grand Unified Theory of Hot.
I rode home last night at about 11:30. Riding fast, the warm air felt comfortably cool against my skin. I rounded a corner onto our street and was caressed by the scent of jasmine. In the sky, a yellowing crescent moon sank through a patch of wispy clouds. I was so carried away by the beauty of the moment that I barely managed to swerve in time to avoid riding over the flat and very dry toad that's been sitting in the middle of our street for days.
And that's what life is like. Beautiful this, beautiful that - and mind the dead toad.
May 02, 2006
The Memoir I Didn't Write
I just finished a book called All the Fishes Come Home to Roost. It's the memoir of a girl who is moved to an ashram in India when she is 7 years old. Both Z and I got a little creeped out by how similar it was to my own life. Her parents even considered naming her Arwen Evenstar, settling on an unpronounceable Indian name instead. Lucky me, I got both! Perhaps smarter than me, the author opted to change her name.
It's certainly been an interesting read. I've been thinking a lot about what it was that the ashram wanted us to believe and what I actually do believe. Realizing that it was all about relinquishing this material and illusory world in the pursuit of a higher plane of existence explains the poverty that I grew up in. Things like gym shoes and jeans didn't matter, but chanting every morning did, even if it made me late for school.
Some of the things Rachel writes about could have been lifted straight from my past: Accounts of spiritual experiences via a guru's photograph; plays full of humor usually involving people dressed in drag; endless cheek-pinching; interpreting all events as the will of someone; drinking water by pouring it from cup into mouth without touching lips to rim; and parents who were no longer speaking to one another.
There are some notable ways in which I had it much, much better than Rachel. For example, I had other children to play with, and I didn't have to attend a Catholic school full of abusive teachers. Also unlike Rachel, my time in India was full of freedom. My days were mainly my own, and Mum tells stories of me not coming back to the room until after 10:00pm, ridiculously late for a 7yo. I guess I ran a little wild.
And yet, in the background was the ashram and those beliefs. How did washing a statue bring someone closer to god? And waving lights at a chair with a photo on it? Z says that he feels like he has no idea what my upbringing was like; I guess I'm a little lost as well. I was involved until I was about 18, and yet have a really hard time describing Siddha Yoga when asked. Like most religions, I feel that it had a great heart but poor execution. (Another similarity with Rachel's story: Siddha Yoga claims not to be a relgion but a "practice".) Devotees obsessed about things that just didn't matter, that were beside the point, like how many times to wave the tray during puja.
In the end, I'm left with a low-level frustration with all things ashram. I don't know what it was all about, I no longer believe any of it, and yet it did form me, my beliefs and my childhood reality. I wish I had been clever enough to question it at the time; perhaps that would have resulted in more immediate answers. Now it's like assembling a jigsaw puzzle in which the pieces are my quirks and beliefs, but the picture was lost long ago.
So if you, like Z, are curious about my upbringing, I recommend reading All the Fishes Come Home to Roost. Subtract the abuse and about two thirds of the really freakish characters and you get a good approximation of what my childhood was like. Even I have to remind myself that it really was that weird.
It's certainly been an interesting read. I've been thinking a lot about what it was that the ashram wanted us to believe and what I actually do believe. Realizing that it was all about relinquishing this material and illusory world in the pursuit of a higher plane of existence explains the poverty that I grew up in. Things like gym shoes and jeans didn't matter, but chanting every morning did, even if it made me late for school.
Some of the things Rachel writes about could have been lifted straight from my past: Accounts of spiritual experiences via a guru's photograph; plays full of humor usually involving people dressed in drag; endless cheek-pinching; interpreting all events as the will of someone; drinking water by pouring it from cup into mouth without touching lips to rim; and parents who were no longer speaking to one another.
There are some notable ways in which I had it much, much better than Rachel. For example, I had other children to play with, and I didn't have to attend a Catholic school full of abusive teachers. Also unlike Rachel, my time in India was full of freedom. My days were mainly my own, and Mum tells stories of me not coming back to the room until after 10:00pm, ridiculously late for a 7yo. I guess I ran a little wild.
And yet, in the background was the ashram and those beliefs. How did washing a statue bring someone closer to god? And waving lights at a chair with a photo on it? Z says that he feels like he has no idea what my upbringing was like; I guess I'm a little lost as well. I was involved until I was about 18, and yet have a really hard time describing Siddha Yoga when asked. Like most religions, I feel that it had a great heart but poor execution. (Another similarity with Rachel's story: Siddha Yoga claims not to be a relgion but a "practice".) Devotees obsessed about things that just didn't matter, that were beside the point, like how many times to wave the tray during puja.
In the end, I'm left with a low-level frustration with all things ashram. I don't know what it was all about, I no longer believe any of it, and yet it did form me, my beliefs and my childhood reality. I wish I had been clever enough to question it at the time; perhaps that would have resulted in more immediate answers. Now it's like assembling a jigsaw puzzle in which the pieces are my quirks and beliefs, but the picture was lost long ago.
So if you, like Z, are curious about my upbringing, I recommend reading All the Fishes Come Home to Roost. Subtract the abuse and about two thirds of the really freakish characters and you get a good approximation of what my childhood was like. Even I have to remind myself that it really was that weird.
April 26, 2006
Sorry Bro
But not so sorry. This picture perfectly sums up why I love the Kushners. They are in a word, awesome. And I get to see this particular one in 18 days. But who's counting?
April 25, 2006
Close
The news about the bombs in Dahab is downright creepy. I was there three months ago. This was our favorite restaurant; their grilled chicken was fantastic.
We've talked about our safety a fair amount on this trip, perhaps understandable considering where we've been. I remember a moment in Cairo when we were walking past a large important building surrounded by armed guards called the World Trade somethingorother. As we walked past, an old beat-up car pulled up as close as it could get to the building and a man leaned out. I had a moment of pure fear. But he was only asking for directions from one of the guards.
The only other time I've been really scared was when our bus from Louang Prabang to Vientiane almost skidded out of control on a mountain curve.
But now this. And in a backpacker place. Relatively low-budget. When we went to Amman fairly soon after the blasts there, we assuaged our fear by remembering that we wouldn't be staying at the Hilton and that our small, crappy guesthouse wouldn't be a target.
But Dahab was.
SE Asia is the first non-western part of the world that I've come back to after a prolonged absence. And this Dahab incident is the first time I've been somewhere and then seen it blown to pieces. I guess New Yorkers, Londoners, Madrid-ers and many, many others relate. It's just my first.
Being back has got me thinking about the homogenization of culture as the west penetrates ever deeper into the east, north and south. One night over dinner in Louang Prabang, Anne, Alex, Z and I talked about the foods we miss and crave. I was hard-pressed to come up with anything, finally settling on Mexican cuisine and Kettle Chips. Pai has both. Cravings satisfied? Check.
This homogenization is related to the fact that more and more people are traveling. We talk about why: travel's easier; more places are accessible; travel is more accepted. But not necessarily safer. I once asked my Dad if he felt like the world was going to hell when he was my age. He said, Yes - but it wasn't nearly as bad as it is today.
He knows how to cheer a person up!
I do not mean to be alarmist. This is one incident in a world of travelers who have had perfectly safe days. It's just makes me think.
And considering how hot it is here, there's little else to do. Though the middle of the day is usually too hot even for thought.
We've talked about our safety a fair amount on this trip, perhaps understandable considering where we've been. I remember a moment in Cairo when we were walking past a large important building surrounded by armed guards called the World Trade somethingorother. As we walked past, an old beat-up car pulled up as close as it could get to the building and a man leaned out. I had a moment of pure fear. But he was only asking for directions from one of the guards.
The only other time I've been really scared was when our bus from Louang Prabang to Vientiane almost skidded out of control on a mountain curve.
But now this. And in a backpacker place. Relatively low-budget. When we went to Amman fairly soon after the blasts there, we assuaged our fear by remembering that we wouldn't be staying at the Hilton and that our small, crappy guesthouse wouldn't be a target.
But Dahab was.
SE Asia is the first non-western part of the world that I've come back to after a prolonged absence. And this Dahab incident is the first time I've been somewhere and then seen it blown to pieces. I guess New Yorkers, Londoners, Madrid-ers and many, many others relate. It's just my first.
Being back has got me thinking about the homogenization of culture as the west penetrates ever deeper into the east, north and south. One night over dinner in Louang Prabang, Anne, Alex, Z and I talked about the foods we miss and crave. I was hard-pressed to come up with anything, finally settling on Mexican cuisine and Kettle Chips. Pai has both. Cravings satisfied? Check.
This homogenization is related to the fact that more and more people are traveling. We talk about why: travel's easier; more places are accessible; travel is more accepted. But not necessarily safer. I once asked my Dad if he felt like the world was going to hell when he was my age. He said, Yes - but it wasn't nearly as bad as it is today.
He knows how to cheer a person up!
I do not mean to be alarmist. This is one incident in a world of travelers who have had perfectly safe days. It's just makes me think.
And considering how hot it is here, there's little else to do. Though the middle of the day is usually too hot even for thought.
April 20, 2006
Reasons to love Laos
An old woman wobbles a tumbler of lao-lao aloft in the vague direction of the companions seated at the table around her, cracks a large gap-toothed grin and collapses onto her nearest neighbor in a fit of giggles. She is one of several thousand drunks in Louang Prabang and all of them appear to be having a good time; there is no threat of the mood deteriorating into angry drunk. What other place can make this claim?
Drag queens grind against poles set up outside a guesthouse facing the Mekong. They are just short of fall-down drunk and it's the middle of the day. One wears a kimono, one a Sadaam mask and green beret, another a peaked chinaman hat and ao dai. I feel like I have traveled back to the Castro for Pride.
Our bus from Louang Prabang to Vientiane plays Asian pop videos that make me want to shoot myself in the foot. They are, it turns out, also karaoke videos. One of the three conductors who started drinking Beer Lao at 8:00am picks up the mic and sings along. Fortunately, he has a decent singing voice. This is the same conductor who offers a giggled two-word explanation for each of our frequent stops: Pee pee.
There is no way to avoid the water - no way to say no, only a way to take it graciously, with a smiled "Sabaidee pi mai!". But most people pour it graciously, making it feel like the blessing it is intended to be. By early afternoon each day, I feel very, very, very blessed. Blessed to the undies.
One afternoon, Anne, Alex, Z and I retreat from the water to an outdoor table at a cafe. We order spring rolls and laap and very chewy beef and mekong seaweed that never shows up and drink vast quantities of beer over several hours of serious card playing that involves wiggling our butts while standing on chairs, quacking like ducks and doing our best impression of Anakin's Noooooooo from Star Wars III. Our tab is $10. Total.
Walking through the night market alone, I realize how different it is to any other market I have ever been in: It is quiet. There is no yelling, no, "Meeeeester, you wan' (fill in the blank)?", no music, just women sitting by their hand-made wares talking quietly with eachother. The hush makes me feel like I'm walking through a temple. All of a sudden, the power goes out and the quiet crowd emits an "Oooooooooh!" in unison. I just have to smile.
And that is what Laos is like: It forces me to smile. Even when I don't feel like it, I smile.
Drag queens grind against poles set up outside a guesthouse facing the Mekong. They are just short of fall-down drunk and it's the middle of the day. One wears a kimono, one a Sadaam mask and green beret, another a peaked chinaman hat and ao dai. I feel like I have traveled back to the Castro for Pride.
Our bus from Louang Prabang to Vientiane plays Asian pop videos that make me want to shoot myself in the foot. They are, it turns out, also karaoke videos. One of the three conductors who started drinking Beer Lao at 8:00am picks up the mic and sings along. Fortunately, he has a decent singing voice. This is the same conductor who offers a giggled two-word explanation for each of our frequent stops: Pee pee.
There is no way to avoid the water - no way to say no, only a way to take it graciously, with a smiled "Sabaidee pi mai!". But most people pour it graciously, making it feel like the blessing it is intended to be. By early afternoon each day, I feel very, very, very blessed. Blessed to the undies.
One afternoon, Anne, Alex, Z and I retreat from the water to an outdoor table at a cafe. We order spring rolls and laap and very chewy beef and mekong seaweed that never shows up and drink vast quantities of beer over several hours of serious card playing that involves wiggling our butts while standing on chairs, quacking like ducks and doing our best impression of Anakin's Noooooooo from Star Wars III. Our tab is $10. Total.
Walking through the night market alone, I realize how different it is to any other market I have ever been in: It is quiet. There is no yelling, no, "Meeeeester, you wan' (fill in the blank)?", no music, just women sitting by their hand-made wares talking quietly with eachother. The hush makes me feel like I'm walking through a temple. All of a sudden, the power goes out and the quiet crowd emits an "Oooooooooh!" in unison. I just have to smile.
And that is what Laos is like: It forces me to smile. Even when I don't feel like it, I smile.
April 15, 2006
Wet
There are a few things in my bag that I haven't used all that much and that I look at on those repack-the-bag occasions and think, Why the hell am I carrying this around? Like our mosquito net; we've used it maybe three times, but on each of those occasions we were exceedingly glad to have it.
And like the dry bag which I unearthed from the bottom of my pack yesterday, trying not to drip into it. It now contains our cameras and money. It is the only thing that I have on me that remains dry. I'm very glad to have it; it has allowed me to take several pictures that can later be used to blackmail my friends and husband. Thank god for dry bags!
And like the dry bag which I unearthed from the bottom of my pack yesterday, trying not to drip into it. It now contains our cameras and money. It is the only thing that I have on me that remains dry. I'm very glad to have it; it has allowed me to take several pictures that can later be used to blackmail my friends and husband. Thank god for dry bags!
April 12, 2006
Elsewhere
I am back in Laos. Back in Louang Prabang. When I was here 5 long years ago I loved it. I still think it's a nice place, though it's very different. There are lots more foreigners. And a night market. And street lights. And fancy cafes serving real coffee and bagels with cream cheese. And I've been here before, even if here has changed. Perhaps that's the main difference; it's no longer new to me.
I read an interesting article by Marcel Theroux in a Newsweek I found in Vientiane. He wrote about travel as the search for Elsewhere, a place that's harder and harder to find in this age of rapid communication. For example, on the road from Vientiane to Louang Prabang we passed tiny villages perched on the side of immense valleys with satellite dishes hooked up to huts with palm-thatch roofs and walls.
And the more one travels, the harder it is to find somewhere really different. When I traveled five years ago, everything felt foreign. It was all new. Being back in Laos proves this point: it's beautiful here, but it doesn't fill me with a tingling sensation of Strange.
This partially explains our reason for going to Africa (the other part being how exotic the word Zanzibar sounded). We were searching for an Elsewhere to experience and call home for a while. But it didn't quite work out like I hoped or expected; it's been much more of a struggle. We've spent lots and lots of time examining ourselves in search of an answer to the question of why - why travel has been this way. The answer lies in the fact that we've changed. We're married, and that makes a huge difference. Marriage is an Elsewhere all of its own - being physically Elsewhere at the same time complicates things. True to form, we're doing too many things at once.
When I stop and think about what I want, it all comes down to a home somewhere. Anywhere! A place of comfort from which to explore this new state I'm in. And that's why we're going to New Zealand for a while. It will be foreign but not too foreign; different, but not too different. There, I think, we can be just married for a while. And that will be enough.
Laos New Year starts tomorrow, though the traditional celebrations (water fights) started several days ago. We bought some water pistols in Bangkok so that we could join in, though they will be rather ineffective against the buckets full of water thrown at us. Yesterday, each of the three main streets had multiple road blocks where people stood waiting to drench all who walked, rode or drove by. And that was two days before New Year. Tomorrow should be madness. I'm looking forward to it.
An Aussie we met in Jordan sent us some pictures, including my new favorite picture of Z:
I just love it.
I read an interesting article by Marcel Theroux in a Newsweek I found in Vientiane. He wrote about travel as the search for Elsewhere, a place that's harder and harder to find in this age of rapid communication. For example, on the road from Vientiane to Louang Prabang we passed tiny villages perched on the side of immense valleys with satellite dishes hooked up to huts with palm-thatch roofs and walls.
And the more one travels, the harder it is to find somewhere really different. When I traveled five years ago, everything felt foreign. It was all new. Being back in Laos proves this point: it's beautiful here, but it doesn't fill me with a tingling sensation of Strange.
This partially explains our reason for going to Africa (the other part being how exotic the word Zanzibar sounded). We were searching for an Elsewhere to experience and call home for a while. But it didn't quite work out like I hoped or expected; it's been much more of a struggle. We've spent lots and lots of time examining ourselves in search of an answer to the question of why - why travel has been this way. The answer lies in the fact that we've changed. We're married, and that makes a huge difference. Marriage is an Elsewhere all of its own - being physically Elsewhere at the same time complicates things. True to form, we're doing too many things at once.
When I stop and think about what I want, it all comes down to a home somewhere. Anywhere! A place of comfort from which to explore this new state I'm in. And that's why we're going to New Zealand for a while. It will be foreign but not too foreign; different, but not too different. There, I think, we can be just married for a while. And that will be enough.
Laos New Year starts tomorrow, though the traditional celebrations (water fights) started several days ago. We bought some water pistols in Bangkok so that we could join in, though they will be rather ineffective against the buckets full of water thrown at us. Yesterday, each of the three main streets had multiple road blocks where people stood waiting to drench all who walked, rode or drove by. And that was two days before New Year. Tomorrow should be madness. I'm looking forward to it.
An Aussie we met in Jordan sent us some pictures, including my new favorite picture of Z:
I just love it.
April 06, 2006
Click!
The further we get from our travels in Africa, the better they become. Funny how time allows us to forget pain. I suppose it's an integral part of our species; without this mechanism, I'm not sure that women would ever get pregnant a second time. And just last night, Z said that he would consider returning to Ethiopia to see Harare and the south. Yet he covers his ears at the mention of Ethiopian food. Humans are strange, strange creatures.
Memories from our trip through East Africa are with me still...
...The Ugandan sky darkening rapidly as a storm approached, the light tinged with yellow and every leaf shaking in the sudden wind. And then a crack of thunder and splash of lightning and all the birds in the trees flying up into the sky...
...A conversation with an Egyptian taxi driver in which we tried to explain the outcome of the last U.S. elections using only hand gestures and the words Bush and Kerry: vigorous thumbs down; palms held upwards as scales; violent head shakes...
...A woman walking down the street in Dar es Salaam catches up with me and utters one word: thief. I look at her, my face a question. She nods her head in the direction of the man behind my left shoulder. I thank her profusely and slow down as she walks on unperturbed...
And there are many more. And not just from Africa. These pictures reminded me of more from our travels through Jordan and Sri Lanka. It's been a wild ride. And we're nearing the end. Just Laos and nothern Thailand and Nice City X with Lev and perhaps some diving with Roberto. All too soon we'll be setting up shop in New Zealand, home to fjords and hot water beaches. And us for a while.
Memories from our trip through East Africa are with me still...
...The Ugandan sky darkening rapidly as a storm approached, the light tinged with yellow and every leaf shaking in the sudden wind. And then a crack of thunder and splash of lightning and all the birds in the trees flying up into the sky...
...A conversation with an Egyptian taxi driver in which we tried to explain the outcome of the last U.S. elections using only hand gestures and the words Bush and Kerry: vigorous thumbs down; palms held upwards as scales; violent head shakes...
...A woman walking down the street in Dar es Salaam catches up with me and utters one word: thief. I look at her, my face a question. She nods her head in the direction of the man behind my left shoulder. I thank her profusely and slow down as she walks on unperturbed...
And there are many more. And not just from Africa. These pictures reminded me of more from our travels through Jordan and Sri Lanka. It's been a wild ride. And we're nearing the end. Just Laos and nothern Thailand and Nice City X with Lev and perhaps some diving with Roberto. All too soon we'll be setting up shop in New Zealand, home to fjords and hot water beaches. And us for a while.
April 02, 2006
Frame
Whoever named Thailand the Land of Smiles must have never visited Sri Lanka. In Sri Lanka I learnt how to lower my guard smile at people again. I didn't realize how closed off Africa and the Middle East had made me. There, smiles were interpreted as invitations to hit on me or sell me things. In Sri Lanka, a smile was just a smile. And the women smiled back. Interacting with women in Muslim countries was very difficult. I had two conversations with women in the several months we spent in Islamic countries, and both occured when I was alone.
But perhaps the person who named Thailand had traveled from Viet-Nam and couldn't believe how friendly the Thai people are. It's really all about where you've been.
This morning, we landed at Bangkok airport after 1.5 hours worth of delays on our 2:25am flight. We were delirious - still are - and trying to function on 1 hour of sleep. At one point I looked at the bus ticket in my hand and thought, I can't believe I never noticed that Thai is written from right to left, like Arabic. Then I realized that I was holding the bus ticket upside down. Yep, another brilliant moment.
I've been thinking a lot on this trip about how everything is relative. (While at UCSC, we had a comic on the Foster Ct fridge for a while that showed some hillbillies with snouts and pigs with noses hanging out on a porch. The caption read, Einstein's theory of the back woods: Everthing's a relative.) A person's reaction to a country or city depends on where they have been. This makes it very hard to get good travel advice. For example, folks I met who had arrived in Cairo from Europe were aghast at the insanity and couldn't wait to leave. One guy I met in Gonder (Ethiopia) had just started traveling through Africa and seemed to be having a great time while we struggled. And several people we met coming from India commented that the roads in Sri Lanka seem so calm.
Even with Cairo behind us, I wouldn't call the roads calm (whatever I may have said in earlier posts). En route from Kandy to the airport, our bus driver pulled out to overtake a truck. Shortly after we moved into the oncoming traffic's lane, the car between us and the truck pulled out in front of us, also wanting to overtake the truck. As it grew close to the truck, the truck pulled out to overtake a van. I think that I can safely say that I've never before been in a bus overtaking a car overtaking a truck overtaking a van. And I'd be content if I wasn't ever again.
Bangkok is strange. There are SO MANY FOREIGNERS. And there are things available on the street corner that we've been looking for for 5 months. I miss the quiet of Sri Lanka and the fact that we white folk were far outnumbered. For those who haven't been to Asia before, Thailand can seem so foreign and exotic. Right now it seems uncomfortably familiar and not like traveling at all. See? It's all about your frame of reference.
On our last day in Sri Lanka, we walked back around Kandy lake and saw two big black and yellow monitor lizards swimming lazily by. And an egret of some kind eating a juicy dragonfly. And a turtle. And a brilliant blue kingfisher doing the Sri Lankan head waggle - the one that means yes and no and maybe. And a really big fish that I named the biglip monkey faced damselcarp. (Fish joke - ha ha ha.) And we watched macaques pick lice off each other and eat them through our bedroom windows at a distance of about 2 ft.
As we walked around looking for a hotel this morning we realized that it's election day here today. It was election day a few days ago in Sri Lanka. And elections loomed large while we were in Israel. And Uganda. And of course, Zanzibar. It's possible that we are just completing a tour of countries that you probably shouldn't visit and that are having elections.
This post was all over the place. Must be the lack of sleep. I think it's time for a nap.
But perhaps the person who named Thailand had traveled from Viet-Nam and couldn't believe how friendly the Thai people are. It's really all about where you've been.
This morning, we landed at Bangkok airport after 1.5 hours worth of delays on our 2:25am flight. We were delirious - still are - and trying to function on 1 hour of sleep. At one point I looked at the bus ticket in my hand and thought, I can't believe I never noticed that Thai is written from right to left, like Arabic. Then I realized that I was holding the bus ticket upside down. Yep, another brilliant moment.
I've been thinking a lot on this trip about how everything is relative. (While at UCSC, we had a comic on the Foster Ct fridge for a while that showed some hillbillies with snouts and pigs with noses hanging out on a porch. The caption read, Einstein's theory of the back woods: Everthing's a relative.) A person's reaction to a country or city depends on where they have been. This makes it very hard to get good travel advice. For example, folks I met who had arrived in Cairo from Europe were aghast at the insanity and couldn't wait to leave. One guy I met in Gonder (Ethiopia) had just started traveling through Africa and seemed to be having a great time while we struggled. And several people we met coming from India commented that the roads in Sri Lanka seem so calm.
Even with Cairo behind us, I wouldn't call the roads calm (whatever I may have said in earlier posts). En route from Kandy to the airport, our bus driver pulled out to overtake a truck. Shortly after we moved into the oncoming traffic's lane, the car between us and the truck pulled out in front of us, also wanting to overtake the truck. As it grew close to the truck, the truck pulled out to overtake a van. I think that I can safely say that I've never before been in a bus overtaking a car overtaking a truck overtaking a van. And I'd be content if I wasn't ever again.
Bangkok is strange. There are SO MANY FOREIGNERS. And there are things available on the street corner that we've been looking for for 5 months. I miss the quiet of Sri Lanka and the fact that we white folk were far outnumbered. For those who haven't been to Asia before, Thailand can seem so foreign and exotic. Right now it seems uncomfortably familiar and not like traveling at all. See? It's all about your frame of reference.
On our last day in Sri Lanka, we walked back around Kandy lake and saw two big black and yellow monitor lizards swimming lazily by. And an egret of some kind eating a juicy dragonfly. And a turtle. And a brilliant blue kingfisher doing the Sri Lankan head waggle - the one that means yes and no and maybe. And a really big fish that I named the biglip monkey faced damselcarp. (Fish joke - ha ha ha.) And we watched macaques pick lice off each other and eat them through our bedroom windows at a distance of about 2 ft.
As we walked around looking for a hotel this morning we realized that it's election day here today. It was election day a few days ago in Sri Lanka. And elections loomed large while we were in Israel. And Uganda. And of course, Zanzibar. It's possible that we are just completing a tour of countries that you probably shouldn't visit and that are having elections.
This post was all over the place. Must be the lack of sleep. I think it's time for a nap.
March 30, 2006
Choo Choo Choo
The buses in Sri Lanka are crowded and full of seats designed for people with only one ass cheek. The drivers think nothing of passing on a blind corner and then will screech to a halt for squirrel. Our few bus rides from Mirissa to Matara and back involved being tossed around as the bus swung wildly all over the narrow road. Not exactly fun. On one memorable ride I got a seat and Z stood next to me. At the next stop, somehow a large woman pushed between Z and I. I spent the rest of the ride with her belly smooshed into the side of my head, not wanting to turn my face for fear of drowning in her cleavage. When Z found out that there was a train from Matara to Kandy that only took 6 hours, we decided to take it rather than risk imminent death in Bus Plunge Horror (thanks to Paul Theroux for that line).
We were not too dismayed when we learnt that the 6 hour ride departed Matara at 1:00pm and arrived in Kandy at 8:00pm. We are, after all, seasoned travelers who expect such things.
The ride between Matara and Colombo mainly traveled the coast. The views of the ocean were beautiful, and some places seem to have been not affected by the tsunami at all. And then we'd pass a long stretch where all that remained of houses were concrete foundations and the occasional walls. One group of boys had turned a concrete slab into a cricket pitch. Many people had built small shacks of crude wooden boards on their old, much larger foundations. Many more people still live in tents donated by various international aid groups, their names stenciled on the blue plastic walls.
In Colombo, we pulled into the station and were immediately swamped by a veritable stampede of office workers trying to get home. I don't know how people managed to get off the train considering how many people were pushing on. The lights and fans quickly went out, leaving us to sweat in a press of bodies.
Outside Colombo, the light began to fade from the sky, the crepuscular mist making the fields look soft enough to pet and the palm trees and distant hills appear blue. It was beautiful, but we were now passing our 6 hour travel time. And then we passed seven hours. And eight. We arrived in Kandy at close to 10pm. There's nothing about a 9hr train ride that feels like 6 hours. It's a known fact that every extra travel hour feels like two.
Apparently, we did not learn our lesson because several days later, we got on a train to Elle, a mountain town 163km from Kandy. This time the 6 hour journey only took 8 hours. Our speed was governed by various signs along the track: 20Km/H; Bad sleepers 10Km/H; and, inexplicably, 15Km/Ph. At one point, and I exagerrate not, I watched a butterfly fly along next to us, keeping apace with the train until it turned away in search of sweeter smells. Yes, we were going as fast as a butterfly.
On the positive side, we met several nice Sri Lankans on the train. The kind of people that insist on buying you all of the food you glance at as it makes its way down the aisles in someone's basket. One man even offered us land upon which to build a house. Sri Lankans are really, really nice.
But we're going to Bangkok anyway. In a couple of days. We planned to go north to Trincomalee but reading about showers that spray mould in $30/night rooms turned us off. Thailand will be good. Easy. Full of other travelers. No pressure to see the sites because we've already seen them. And I hear they have Thai food there. Yum!
We were not too dismayed when we learnt that the 6 hour ride departed Matara at 1:00pm and arrived in Kandy at 8:00pm. We are, after all, seasoned travelers who expect such things.
The ride between Matara and Colombo mainly traveled the coast. The views of the ocean were beautiful, and some places seem to have been not affected by the tsunami at all. And then we'd pass a long stretch where all that remained of houses were concrete foundations and the occasional walls. One group of boys had turned a concrete slab into a cricket pitch. Many people had built small shacks of crude wooden boards on their old, much larger foundations. Many more people still live in tents donated by various international aid groups, their names stenciled on the blue plastic walls.
In Colombo, we pulled into the station and were immediately swamped by a veritable stampede of office workers trying to get home. I don't know how people managed to get off the train considering how many people were pushing on. The lights and fans quickly went out, leaving us to sweat in a press of bodies.
Outside Colombo, the light began to fade from the sky, the crepuscular mist making the fields look soft enough to pet and the palm trees and distant hills appear blue. It was beautiful, but we were now passing our 6 hour travel time. And then we passed seven hours. And eight. We arrived in Kandy at close to 10pm. There's nothing about a 9hr train ride that feels like 6 hours. It's a known fact that every extra travel hour feels like two.
Apparently, we did not learn our lesson because several days later, we got on a train to Elle, a mountain town 163km from Kandy. This time the 6 hour journey only took 8 hours. Our speed was governed by various signs along the track: 20Km/H; Bad sleepers 10Km/H; and, inexplicably, 15Km/Ph. At one point, and I exagerrate not, I watched a butterfly fly along next to us, keeping apace with the train until it turned away in search of sweeter smells. Yes, we were going as fast as a butterfly.
On the positive side, we met several nice Sri Lankans on the train. The kind of people that insist on buying you all of the food you glance at as it makes its way down the aisles in someone's basket. One man even offered us land upon which to build a house. Sri Lankans are really, really nice.
But we're going to Bangkok anyway. In a couple of days. We planned to go north to Trincomalee but reading about showers that spray mould in $30/night rooms turned us off. Thailand will be good. Easy. Full of other travelers. No pressure to see the sites because we've already seen them. And I hear they have Thai food there. Yum!
March 23, 2006
Mmmm...
We just spent 9 days on a beach in southern Sri Lanka. The water was warm. The waves were fun. The sand was soft. The food was cheap. And the best part? No-one tried to sell us anything. It's that last part that separates the merely wonderful from paradise.
We are now in Kandy which everyone from tuk-tuk drivers to travelers has warned us is busy, polluted, loud and full of con-men. Obviously these people have never been to Cairo. After that city, nothing will ever seem busy, polluted or full of touts again. Ever.
You can enjoy our travels vicariously by checking out some new pictures. Not so many this time. Egypt to Jordan. Mouth watering pictures of Sri Lanka will come later.
We are now in Kandy which everyone from tuk-tuk drivers to travelers has warned us is busy, polluted, loud and full of con-men. Obviously these people have never been to Cairo. After that city, nothing will ever seem busy, polluted or full of touts again. Ever.
You can enjoy our travels vicariously by checking out some new pictures. Not so many this time. Egypt to Jordan. Mouth watering pictures of Sri Lanka will come later.
March 12, 2006
Things I will miss, things I won't
I had just relearned how to cross the road by waiting for the little man to turn green when we arrived in Jordan where I have had to unlearn the relearning in order to throw my body in front of moving vehicles, little green and red men be damned.
The roads here aren't nearly as bad as Cairo, which may not be saying all that much. However, when Jordanian motorists see pedestrians in the street they usually slow down, unlike Cairenes who speed up and lean on the horn. People here are on the whole like their friendly Egyptian neighbours but without the wandering hands, the marriage proposals and the You wanna alabaster pyramid? When it comes to ruins and things that are old, however, Egypt does take the cake, perhaps with one exception: in the Archaelogical Museum in Amman they have statues that are 9,000 years old. The only other human things I've seen that age have been bits of rock that some specialist claims are tools but that just look like bits of rock that fell off another bit of rock in just the right way that if you use your imagination you can see that they could once have been used as a knife.
Speaking of rocks, the Nabateans who built Petra apparently listened to their realtors when they said, Location! Location! Location! The facades of the buildings there are nice, but the rock they are carved into is stunning: sandstone in blue, red, white, pink, purple, yellow and cream swirls and stripes. It sometimes resembled abstract art and sometimes big slabs of meat, depending on how long it had been since we last ate. On our second day in Petra we avoided the raging winds laden with scouring Saharan dust by wandering through a side canyon. It was one of the most beautiful natural places I've ever been. At one point, the canyon narrowed to a few feet wide and twisted sinously in waves of colored stone. If you haven't been, you should go.
And tomorrow, we are leaving the cold parts of the world. We fly to Dubai for dinner and then on to Sri Lanka where we'll take a bus to a beach where we can string up our hammocks, remove our layers, open our books and say things like, Why yes! I would like another coconut daquari. I will, however, miss the hummous. I like the hummous. I will not miss herpes, which was listed on a menu in Wadi Musa under the heading, Warm Drinks.
The roads here aren't nearly as bad as Cairo, which may not be saying all that much. However, when Jordanian motorists see pedestrians in the street they usually slow down, unlike Cairenes who speed up and lean on the horn. People here are on the whole like their friendly Egyptian neighbours but without the wandering hands, the marriage proposals and the You wanna alabaster pyramid? When it comes to ruins and things that are old, however, Egypt does take the cake, perhaps with one exception: in the Archaelogical Museum in Amman they have statues that are 9,000 years old. The only other human things I've seen that age have been bits of rock that some specialist claims are tools but that just look like bits of rock that fell off another bit of rock in just the right way that if you use your imagination you can see that they could once have been used as a knife.
Speaking of rocks, the Nabateans who built Petra apparently listened to their realtors when they said, Location! Location! Location! The facades of the buildings there are nice, but the rock they are carved into is stunning: sandstone in blue, red, white, pink, purple, yellow and cream swirls and stripes. It sometimes resembled abstract art and sometimes big slabs of meat, depending on how long it had been since we last ate. On our second day in Petra we avoided the raging winds laden with scouring Saharan dust by wandering through a side canyon. It was one of the most beautiful natural places I've ever been. At one point, the canyon narrowed to a few feet wide and twisted sinously in waves of colored stone. If you haven't been, you should go.
And tomorrow, we are leaving the cold parts of the world. We fly to Dubai for dinner and then on to Sri Lanka where we'll take a bus to a beach where we can string up our hammocks, remove our layers, open our books and say things like, Why yes! I would like another coconut daquari. I will, however, miss the hummous. I like the hummous. I will not miss herpes, which was listed on a menu in Wadi Musa under the heading, Warm Drinks.
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